Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Some Observations on Wood's Metal
I was also able to draw some up into a plastic syringe. That gave me the ability to apply it wherever I wanted. Also, if I let it cool in the syringe, I ended up with a nice cylindrical slug that was easier to melt than the original lump I had. A bit difficult to get the cooled metal out of the syringe but not impossible.
As for actually applying it, I did notice that it tends to drip and bead when molten. No big surprise there.
Does it stick to tinned components like tin/lead solder does? I suppose you would need a flux to remove oxidation first. Do low enough temperature fluxes exist? Alternatively can wood's metal be heated to normal solder temperatures?
BTW, since wood's metal is 13% lead, it can cause toxic contamination in very small amounts. After contact, objects shouldn't be used with food,(or just about anything else) but you might know that already!
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